For a very long time, I wanted to write about machine online embroidery digitizing on corduroy. This is not the most common fabric for embroidery, but it’s still interesting why it got its bad reputation – “complicated”.
If we describe this fabric in several sentences that are important for machine embroidery, then we can say about it like this:
Corduroy has a pronounced surface texture – it has a scar, which is formed by pile stripes alternating with smooth, lint-free stripes. The width of the strips can be very different, from narrow with a small pile height to wide with a high pile.
Corduroy can be made from 100% cotton. In this case, we have an excellent, almost perfect, non-stretch fabric on our hands. Or, which is much more common nowadays, the composition is a mixture of various fibers. Now manufacturers, among other things, like to add lycra to corduroy. With this addition, the fabric becomes stretchable and well-draped in one direction – across the lobar (scar). At least recently I have come across only such specimens.
This fabric received the title “complex” for its texture. The embroidered elements can sink not only in the rib but also get lost between the pile stripes. And also the edge of the elements has the danger of becoming ribbed when crossing the stripes. This determines the task, which is not difficult to solve.
The technique of a corduroy embroidery machine is quite simple and if you follow it, then, in principle, there should be no disappointments:
- Fold fabric with stabilizer. You can use both a dense tear-off and a medium cut-off. Which one depends on the quality of the material used? For even more stability, you can secure the fabric to the stabilizer with temporary fixing glue.
- If the pile is very high, then, as with all pile fabrics such as terry or velvet, you can use a water-soluble film on top. Recommendations for the type of film to use for corduroy vary from thinnest to super thick. I even read somewhere that on a coarse scar you need to use a dense water-soluble one. In my opinion, you can use it, but here’s how to remove such a thick one from all corners? On my own, I will add that you can completely replace the expensive film with cheap improvised material that is available in every home.
- It can be used to crush the pile instead of a film – a thermally destructible material, for example, thermos, as advised by its manufacturers. But, if you do not want to spoil the pile when it’s this material, then it is better to put cling film or a bag.
- Use sharp needles. The thickness of the needle is selected depending on the thickness of the corduroy and the width of the rib. The needle should be # 70/10 when embroidery digitizing services on very narrow ribs and # 80/12 for very thick stripes.
- Any thread for embroidery can be used.
The rules for creating an embroidery program or selecting a design for corduroy read as follows:
- For a very thin hem, any designs are suitable, from the simplest, such as redwork, to the most complex, fully sewn-in stitches.
- For a coarse hem, it is better to choose designs that are tight and sewn with stitches, and avoid thin elements.
- Letters, if they are in the design, it is better to make at least 6mm so that they do not fall through. If the letters fail, then you can put a full tatami lattice under them with a low density (like a frame) so that small elements do not sink into the rib.
- Frame (reinforcing) lines need to be reinforced.
- Instead of a 90-degree grid, put a full 45 and 135-degree grid under the fill. Choose a stitch length that will give the surface to be embroidered smooth.
- Under satin fabrics of medium width, put stitches along the edge, preferably in 2 passes with a stitch length of 2-2.5 mm.
- Place the central strengthening under the thin sateen.
- For thick satin – stitches along the edge, in 2 passages + zigzag.
- Increase the shrinkage compensation by at least 0.1 mm compared to the usual one.
- Density should be 0.4mm or slightly denser.
As always, the above settings for creating an embroidery design are the most common. And you will still have to select the parameters based on the structural features of the fabric and the selected design.
For the first time, I embroidered fabrics on this, and for experiments, I made the design in the same way as I usually do, with the same densities as usual (in my sierra it is 5 lines per mm, which is approximately equal to 0.4 mm). I just strengthened the frames under the satin letters, running them 2 times. Increased compensation by another 0.1mm.
Embroidered the same design on finely ribbed corduroy with a low pile:
On corduroy with a large rib with a high pile:
In none of the cases did I put the film on top. The height of lowercase letters on the bottom line is 4.6mm and in both cases, they turned out well and did not fail anywhere. And if we do not take into account some shortcomings in the general programming, such as I gave too little compensation for stretching (lengthening) on the leaves, and in some places, the overlap is knocked out from under the edging stays, then in general everything is fine.
Even on a large hem, I embroidered the design with a simple stitch, it fell a little, but in general, the appearance is very decent, despite the absence of a film: